READ@PEACE

Books, Lit Fests, News, Movies, Art, Fashion and TV of course... "I must say that I find television very educational. The minute somebody turns it on, I go to the library and read a book." - GROUCHO MARX

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I'd write more, like you said I should. If only, there was more to me.

Friday, August 03, 2007

WANNA TRAVEL?

When in Byron Bay, don't go looking for travelling like a Master....
Instead it's.....
Go ahead take your pick.....

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Tuesday, May 22, 2007

TRAVEL N WRITING

"...I did join Time Magazine. I was in the curious state of writing world affairs for them. Curious because, as perhaps you know, Time and Newsweek have this peculiar system whereby half the people actually go around the world covering the news and the other half just sit in New York in little cubicles writing on it. So I was in that second category. Every week I would write palpitating, breathless accounts of foraging my way through Philippine jungles or ascending the Andes to find the Sendero Luminoso gorillas or seeing an uprising in South Africa without ever having been to those places and without knowing what they look like."

"....Well, that is what decided me to become a travel writer. I made the fatal and unforgivable mistake of beginning to take holidays and I took them in some of the places I was writing about. I quickly came to the conclusion you just enunciated, which is, "Why on earth am I sitting in a cubicle writing about these places at one remove when I could actually be there." That is when I started writing my books and moving away from Time Magazine. But writing world affairs for them was a very good discipline in writing clearly and concretely. It was also a good crash course in world affairs because, literally, every week I would come in on Tuesday and be told, "You are going to be writing this week on Paraguay," or "Haiti," or "Ciskei." I wouldn't have even heard of them before, so I would desperately learn everything I could about them so as to be able to turn out a seemingly authoritative article two days later."

"....I think the main reason I travel, if I were to sum it up in one word, is for ambiguity. The reason I love travel is not just because it transports you in every sense, but because it confronts you with emotional and moral challenges that you would never have to confront at home. So I like going out in search of moral and emotional adventure which throws me back upon myself and forces me to reconsider my assumptions and the things I took for granted. It sends me back a different person."


Sounds familiar? Sounds like someone you know? Sounds like you?

Or all of the above?

Well, well, if you haven't already got it, it's one of the best travel writers of our time.

Read Pico Iyer's insightful conversation on PostModern Tourism with Scott London here.

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Thursday, May 17, 2007

SIDEWAYS WITH ANDY & MISHA

This is as good a time as any to journey on with my good pals Misha and Andy.

We met, no prizes for guessing, thanks to the first 'New Zealand, New Thinking Festival.' It was an amazing connect, Misha was superbly organised, we worked together on a couple of interviews. I messed up a 'thank you for your support' lunch by showing up in jeans, but she was totally chilled out about the walk in the sun.

"No, you are not getting into that skirt," she told me, almost sensing my disdain for short skirts.

Needless to say, we've been friends since. Misha has hosted some of the most memorable parties - BBQ's, Oscar guessing champagne party, sit down dinners or just one of those come on let's head out for a cuppa coffee - she's made me feel perfectly at home even when we're meeting outside.

In the time we've had together, we've journeyed through some of her and her husband Andy's spirited plans. It all started with a card. I still have it on my book shelf.

Then we got a first peek of a branding exercise. Several designs pulled out over one of her lovely dinner parties and you had your pick your favourites. Things didn't quite stop at "I like this one." You had to explain why.

It was a split house but the discussion was important because it would define whether or not you would be able to spot the tipple when it finally hit the shelves.

Splitting their time between Singapore and New Zealand, Andy and Misha have been busy with their vineyard. It all started with an idea. Having seen the first pictures of the land on their hands, it was hard to imagine it would evolve into the beauty it is today.

It sits near Lake Dunstan, offering superb views and depending on the time of the day reflections in the lake too.

They have just finished their first trial harvest. Misha tells me a lot more work lies ahead. By October, 65 acres will be under vine. I wait, like so many others, to uncork my first bottle of Misha's to sip the heady taste of success.

I'm sure soon enough Misha will unravel more fantastic plans for the vineyard. I can already visualise several things though if I may, I'm going to suggest a 'Wine Stay.' I can already find myself drinking to that thought as I step into another world with these cheery pictures......







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Wednesday, May 16, 2007

LOOKING, SEEING, BELIEVING

Has this happened to you before?

You see something on the net. You get the price. You believe it is right. You travel several miles expecting to see your paradise. You get there. You are shocked.

Well, if it hasn't happened to you, what can I say..... lucky you.

I've been short changed in the past. It's happened with tour packages, which we swore off, after the lousy hotel we landed in almost eight years ago in Langkawi. It happened to me again when I got my Dad and sis to join me in Amritsar. Dad had been attempting to convince me to stay in the Army mess, but I thought something we paid for would be much better. I couldn't have been more wrong.

That's why when I see fantastic pictures advertising a particular property, I book it with almost a sense of disbelief. I wait till I get there to see everything for myself before pronouncing judgment on it. Yes, pictures sometimes lie.

Which is why when I saw these, I was holding my breath. Could it really be that beautiful?

After a visit to Gill and Barry's amazing Tudor style home nestled quietly on Mountain Road in Rotorua the verdict is - YES, YES, YES....

This is the view from the slopes of Mount Ngongotaha where the picturesque beauty is housed......


This is exactly how the cottage looks......


These are the interiors. I loved every bit of it but what truly stole my heart were the bed-side lamps. I reckon they are common enough in New Zealand, but its the first time we'd seen the one touch wonders. Gently touch it and they light up. Touch them again they go from a soft to a warm to a bright glow. Touch them once more they switch off. No more meddling with annoying switches when you the book you are reading is sending you to slumberland. So if any of you are headed my way from Middle Earth, you know what to get me. Wanted to pick these beauties up but never got to a mall on time. As always so much to do, so little time.


And if you have money to spare, this property also happens to be on sale. I do hope, whoever buys it next will make this labour of love live on. Everyone who has stayed there has had a story to tell. The visitors book in the cottage a testament to that. And that is what travel should be - a story, an adventure, another page flipped, another one still to be written.

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Tuesday, May 15, 2007

SOUL FOOD

What's travel without food? And what better way to savour it than by following local tips. Our best meal quite the best views having survived the treacherous drive was at Admirals Arms in Coromandel.

Even if it's only for a meal here, the drive from Thames makes a trip to this historic 1872 property well worth it. Brian, our wonderful host at 'The Little Farm' showed us where it stood from his home. With the view of the coastline, it looked spectacular.

"Leave early," he told us, "if it isn't too cold, you can even sit outside and take in the sunset."

We took his word for that. Arrived just as the restaurant was set to open its doors for dinner. The special was being written and we were the first in. It was the warmest of welcomes. Soon the place was filling up with several regulars and some visitors like us. Almost everyone seemed to know everyone. The familiarity of a small town rubbing us right. I realised we were heading to the end of our Kiwi adventure and I hadn't gone through a cheese spread. Yes, its supposed to end the meal but I decided to start things with it. Ummmmm, it was perfect, exactly like the food which arrived well in time. Fresh salad, melt in your mouth meats, crunchy nuggets - none of us was complaining. All of it was easy on the wallet too. Closing at a tad over $100 with wine thrown in, we sure had reason to smile after bidding our wonderful hostess adieu.

It was a similar story in Rotorua which packed amazing sights, sounds and food. Our hosts at Westminster Lodge gave us the perfect start by setting us in the direction of the Fat Dog Cafe on Day One. If this isn't temptation enough.....


then this might work....


Or for the strict foodie at heart, only the menu longlist will do. I tucked into the most delectable lamb korma, awesome wine followed by just a bite of their sinful dessert. Trust them when they say it's "enough for two hounds." Breakfast at Fat Dog can take you through the day, dinner is enough to get you skipping breakfast the next morning.

Didn't make it to the other highly recommended place - Pig & Whistle. We got a little side-tracked by a couple of other local recommendations. But once you've gone through Fat Dog, it's a tough match.

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NOTES FROM MIDDLE EARTH - I

Long before slow travel evolved into the current fad, Bala and I became pros at it. Not for us the 10 day, 10 city adventure. We like to take it slow, we like to avoid hotel rooms, we like to meet the people, eat with them, drink with them. That possibly explains why Ketut and Janet's abode in Ubud has such enduring charm for us. But this is about New Zealand.

A missed flight, no perfect connections, amazing help from Singapore Airlines, right from the ground, customer service to the ticketing staff, Aneesha, Dhruv and I are finally on our way to the City of Sails - Auckland. It's a beautiful flight. The kids are so exhausted, they refuse to budge even when the plane lands. Much nudging later, we are on terra firma.

First stop, the first of many to be checked at counters. I'm expecting the usual hostile response. So imagine my state when an immensely warm smile followed by:
"How are you doing this morning? What about the children? Had a great flight?"

Before I can even mumble anything appropriate.
"You are a journalist?"
"Yes, Mam."
"Do you meet Bollywood stars?
"Sort of, if filming them from a distance counts."
"You know I'm a big Bollywood fan.
"Really? Who do you like the best?"
"I don't understand all of them, but I like that beautiful Miss World, was it, her name's with A."


No escaping Aish-Abhi trail, even if you sorely wanted.

"I'm not surprised they chose to fly through Auckland," I tell the lovely lady behind the counter.

The tables are quickly reversed.

"Did they?"
"You bet, all the way to Bora Bora, if the media reports are right this time round?"
"Awww, I wish I could have seen them."


Are the multiple Bollywood award organisers listening? Another market waiting to be tapped.
******************
On a springing Bollywood note, we line up for the next round of clearance.

A sniffer dog and a cop seem to be heading my way.

"Sir, I have food in my bag. I need to declare it."
"Mam, are you travelling alone with children?"
"Yes, I am."
"Follow me."


The next thing I know I'm past the next lane, sniffer dog in tow.
******************
The immensely kind cop points me in the direction of the food clearance lane.

"Have you declared everything in your form?" the official asks.

There is an immediate affinity here. The official is from India, within a minute he has switched to Hindi, he tells me he moved here from Haryana, the first couple of years were tough (aren't they always) but now he and has family love it here. He is thrilled to learn that I'm from Chandigarh. We may have been strangers a minute ago but our lingo, our shared capital, our movies are an immediate connect. I'm quizzed yet again about Bollywood. It's almost turning out to be an emotional homecoming. I've got to pinch myself to believe this is my first visit to New Zealand and that too to only one part of it.
********************
With that we are finally in Bala's safe arms. Several maps, bags and GPS in tow. Before we can get out, we've lost our parking ticket. Murphy's law? $30 poorer but blessed with a whole new set of verbal directions, map blind Bala and I are on our way to explore just one part of North Island. Often when I look back at our journeys and our spirit to drive on with our directional blindness, I'm surprised. Luckily for us, apart from sending us in circles, the GPS hasn't died on us. It doesn't fail us as we start the absolutely stunning drive from Auckland to Rotorua.

*****************

Every where you look, it is a picture of loveliness. It almost feels like you are driving through a post card, you've got to keep pinching yourself to believe this is for real. This much beauty, the well travelled hubby tells me is only to be found in Scotland. For now, I'm not blinking, I want to take in all I can. We make it to Rotorua in time to find Mountain Road, just off Clayton Road, head into our lovely cottage. The only thing missing here is Goldlilocks I tell our hostess Gill. It's drop dead gorgeous. She helps us settle in, with much needed tips on ways to use the fire and the the big saviour thermal blankets. She also makes one of the finest recommendations for dinner. For a change, my meal tastes better than Bala's. If you aren't blessed with a sweet tooth, avoid anything that says caramelized. That's how the lamb shanks arrived. Expectedly, none of us wanted to bite into it.


With sights like these, we expectedly fall in love with Rotorua and would have stayed here for the rest of the days. But the cottage is taken, Gill tells us. Leaving us with no choice but to vacate.
****************

If move we must, then it's got to be to Coromandel. Take a look to see why......

We've sort of studied the map. We imagine the drive to be as smooth as the ones we've embarked on so far. What we have factored in is the fact that when we enter Coromandel on the GPS, it reads it as the tip of the Coromandel Peninsula. Once we touch the tip, it calls for reprogramming to Coromandel Town. We arrive at Thames expecting straight roads, only to realise the journey has only just begun.

For someone who hasn't ever taken on hill roads - the drive upto Hillside doesn't count, mind you - this is a good 50-60 kilometres of circuit training. This is precisely what my pal Jen Ding had warned me about.

"You look down and you feel you'll drive into the ocean."

Yes, that is the sinking feeling.

Things aren't made any better when Aneesha decides to revisit her Social Studies lesson.

She is the front seat navigator.

"Daddy, is that the Pacific Ocean?"
"Yes."
"It is the deepest ocean in the world. It's in my book."
"So if we slip we'll be in the deepest ocean."


Perish the thought, I tell myself. It's hard. The undulating landscape continues. We take several breaks to give everyone a way ahead of us. We want to relax when we feel like the mountains are kissing the sky, when the sea seems to stretch into infinity. It's hard.

A good two hours, slowly, steadily we make it to Coromandel.

I spot a little farm stay though we decide to take a quick round of town to decide where it is we want to stay. 10 minutes later, I'm chatting with Brian, getting a quick tour of his charming home and settling for his cottage with unmatched views of the coast and the mountain. I couldn't have asked for more.
**********************
Anshy and Dhruv are delighted.

They've got bulls to feed. A fisherman to chat upto and what else - but sheep.

Yes, they outnumber the residents of New Zealand. And yes, you've read it right.

These beauties are everywhere. Grazing away through rain and shine. They are temptation enough to make 'woolly volunteers' of our eager beaver children, who made it to stage to feed them through a bottle.

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